Aguja Poincenot - West face


9. Carrington-Rouse


650m 6b 35˚

Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse (UK), 22/2/1977.

Description. A very fine alpine route. The climbing is varied, from fine face climbing, to lay-backing on flakes, to a chimney and an odd mixed groove. The upper portion of the route follows the Fonrouge-Rosasco.

History. They climbed alpine style, employing three days round trip from the Torre glacier. The first ascensionists had done one attempt a few days before, during which they were forced to retreat half way up the ramp due to bad weather.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponinos to Polacos, up the Poincenot couloir. A few sections of the approach are exposed to an ugly serac. In the lower part climb the buttress left of the couloir (500m, scrambling, 2 to 5) that is sheltered from the serac.

Descent. Whillans?

Bibliography. Mountain Magazine 58 p. 18-21; AAJ 1978 p. 581-583; Climbing Magazine 47 p. 5-11; Andinismo 1977/1 p.56?.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot north face

Aguja Poincenot west face