Aguja Poincenot - West face


11. Southern Cross


1000m (700 new) 6b+ A1.

Jonathan Copp and Dylan Taylor (USA), 17-18/2/2002.

Description. This route crisscrosses the Fonrouge-Rosasco several times. Climb a ramp system similar to that of the Carrington-Rouse, but around 300 meters lower. In this ramp the climbing is fairly easy for the most part, with occasional moves of 6a/b. At the top of the ramp traverse right onto the southwest face crossing the Fonrouge-Rosasco. Follow a very obvious 200-meter long crack system, which includes many three-star pitches and some off-width climbing. At the end of this a pendulum left leads to a dihedral, at the top of which the route join the Fonrouge-Rosasco for a short bit, then climb straight up, left of the Fonrouge, climbing on strange tunneling pitch and making a rappel to reach the summit.

History. They route was climbed alpine style, with no bivy gear, over three days. As far as the origin of the name of the route, Copp refers to Crosby, Still and Nash’s lyrics: “When you see the Southern Cross for the first time, ya understand now why you came this way…” 

Approach. De Agostini to Niponinos to Polacos, up the pillar to the left of the Poincenot couloir, that is protected from the serac above.

Pro. Doubles to camalot #4? From the first ascent description a #5 would likely be useful.

Descent. The first ascentionists descended a line 100 meters left of Old Smugglers, on the north face, roughly along the line of Banana Wall. That said Old Smugglers has rap anchors too.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot west face

Aguja Poincenot southwest face