Aguja Poincenot - North face


7. 40º Gruppo Ragni


600m 6b A2 35˚

Paolo Vitali, Mario Panzeri, Marco Della Santa and Daniele Bosisio (Italy), 8/12/1986. To the top of the W buttress, 20 meters below the summit.

Description. Follows a series of obvious crack systems, most of which can be climbed free except for a few sections. The route starts 100 meters up and left from the start of the Carrington-Rouse. The rock is very good throughout, but there are some specially striking features in the upper part, including a fantastic 40 meter crack that slashes across an otherwise feature less headwall.

History. They completed the route in pure alpine style over two days, climbing 14 pitches on their first day to reach the small saddle behind the prominent pinnacle where they found a small bivy ledge barely big enough to sit. From the top of the buttress they did not continue on to the summit, which is higher by only 20 meters, but getting to it involves difficult route finding and alpine trickery. They placed five bolts, only one of which was for progression. They descended the route, making a second bivouac at the base. The following morning, while making a traverse Vitali was blown off and fell 100 meters down the Poincenot couloir, miraculously stopping but suffering two badly sprained ankles.
The original idea to attempt this line was from Marco della Santa and it was named to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the climbing group they belong to, the famous Ragni.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponinos to Polacos, up the Poincenot couloir. A few sections of the approach are exposed to an ugly serac. In the lower part climb the buttress left of the couloir (500m, scrambling, 2 to 5) that is sheltered from the serac.

Pro. Two each camalots to #4, nuts.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography. Alp Magazine 25 p. 19; Benini A. (1996) Ragni di Lecco - 50 anni sulle montagne dell mondo, Vivalda, Torino (p. 189 and 192).

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot north face

Aguja Poincenot west face