Aguja Poincenot - Southwest face


15. Judgement Day


900m (650 new) 6c A1

Jay Smith and Steve Gerberding (USA), 25-28/1/1992.

Description. A fantastic route. Climbs 700 meters of perfectly clean cracks to reach the easy upper tier of Poincenot’s SW face, where it joins the Fonrouge-Rosasco route. It follows a crack system 150 meters right of the Fonrouge, leading to a visible tower. The rock is very good and the climbing can be done clean (no pitons and no bolts) and mostly free, with the exception of a short tension traverse to change cracks in the vertical middle headwall and one 10 meter iced up section.

History. The first ascent party fixed 150 meters of rope, and then climbed alpine style over 4 days, two of which were spent inside their bivi sacks at the top of pitch nine, waiting out a passing storm. As they had hoped to complete their route in just two days they only had a very limited amount of food and therefore spent two days eating 3 peanuts a day. When the weather finally improved, it was Gerberding who took the lead feeling a bit weary after several days with little food, and much to his and Smith’s surprise he passed out while climbing, taking a ten meter fall as a result.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponinos to Polacos, up the Innominata couloir.

Pro. Take 3 each to camalot #2, 2 each to camalot #4, 1 camalot # 5. No ice gear needed on route.

Descent. Descend via the same route.

Bibliography. AAJ 92 p. 164-172; Desnivel magazine 73 p. 79.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot southwest face

Aguja Poincenot southeast face