Aguja Poincenot - East face


2. Fühle Dich stark, aber nicht

unsterblich


550m (400 new) A3+ 6c M5

Simon Gietl (Italy) and Roger Schaeli (Switzerland), 6/12/2009.

Description. Climb half way up the Whillans ramp to the base of a steep blank face, above which looms a steep crack system that leads all the way to the summit. The blank face is the crux, a time-consuming 30-meter aid extravaganza.

History. Climbed in one continuous push over four days, after fixing ropes up the Whillans ramps. Por qué el nombre de la ruta? responde Schaeli: “El nombre se lo inventó Simón y a los dos nos encantó, creemos que es lo que funciona para tener éxito en las montañas: arriésgalo todo cuando tiene sentido, pero párate si quieres llegar a viejo. ¡Escucha tu intuición!”

Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior. To gain the start of the ramp you have to traverse the ejection cone of the couloir at the face of the NE face. That slope can often be unstable. Consider tying two ropes together (it is 100m aprox) and belaying across.

Pro. Two each to #4? hooks, pins, heads?

Descent. Via the same route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot east face

Aguja Poincenot northeast face