Aguja Poincenot - Southwest face


19. Rise of the Machines


900m (650 new) 6c A2+

Jens Holsten, Joel Kauffman and Mikey Schaefer (USA), 12/2011.

Description.Climbs a line between Judgement Day and Sacrificio del Raton. The initial seven pitches to reach an obvious break at the base of the steep headwall involve stellar climbing in clean corners with difficulties to 6b. The first few pitches up the headwall involve aiding less than perfect rock, "exfoliating", "funky kitty litter rock", "littered with large loose blocks", involving also a couple of pendulums. In the following pitches up the headwall the rock improves but still involves much aid climbing. After seven steep pitches the route eases joining the Fonrouge-Rosasco a couple of pitches higher.

History. The route was climbed alpine style over three days, with two bivies on the way up. It was named Rise of the Machines after the Terminator theme set by Judgement Day, the route immediately right.

Approach. Niponinos to Polacos, up the Innominata couloir.

Pro. Triples to #3, 1 #4, stoppers, a few pitons.

Descent. Via Judgement Day. Easier said than done.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot southwest face