Aguja Poincenot - North face
8. Old Smugglers
600m 6b+ A2 35˚
Jim Donini and Gregory Crouch (USA), 8-9/12/1996.
Description. The route climbs one of the obvious crack systems up the north face. The first two pitches are in common with the 40º Gruppo Ragni route. Head to a huge ledge on pitch 4, climbing a corner leading to its the right edge. From there climb sustained cracks to the top of the north face, followed by difficult route finding and some alpine trickery –including one rappel- to reach the summit (leave the rope fixed in the rappel to return!). This is a high quality climb, that involves 20 pitches of mostly free climbing terrain.
History. After a failed attempt they completed the route over two days climbing alpine style, and without the use of bolts or pitons. They named their route after an Argentine brand of cheap whisky that kept them going through the numerous bad weather spells. Twenty years before, Donini had already done a fair amount of Old Smuggler’s drinking, during the first ascent of Torre Egger in 1976. The route has been repeated at least once.
Approach. De Agostini to Niponinos to Polacos, up the Poincenot couloir. A few sections of the approach are exposed to an ugly serac. In the lower part climb the buttress left of the couloir (500m, scrambling, 2 to 5) that is sheltered from the serac.
Pro. Doubles or triples to camalot #3, one camalot #4, one camalot #5.
Descent. Descend the route.
Bibliography. AAJ 1997 p. 252-254; High Magazine 176 p. 80-81; Rock and Ice Magazine 78 p. 68-78; Annales GHM 96/97 p. 39; Gregory Crouch (2002) Enduring Patagonia, Random House, USA (p. 115-141).
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