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Update: last updated on 09/09/2013.

Aguja Poincenot - North face

8. The Old Smuggler's Route

600m 6a+ C1

Jim Donini and Gregory Crouch (USA), 8-9/12/1996.

Description. The route climbs one of the obvious crack systems up the north face. The first two pitches are in common with the 40º Gruppo Ragni route. Head to a huge ledge on pitch 4, climbing a corner leading to its the right edge. From there climb sustained cracks to the top of the north face, followed by difficult route finding and some alpine trickery –including one rappel- to reach the summit (leave the rope fixed in the rappel to return!). This is a high quality climb, that involves 20 pitches of mostly free climbing terrain.

History. After a failed attempt they completed the route over two days climbing alpine style, and without the use of bolts or pitons. They named their route after an Argentine brand of cheap whisky that kept them going through the numerous bad weather spells. Twenty years before, Donini had already done a fair amount of Old Smuggler’s drinking, during the first ascent of Torre Egger in 1976. The route has been repeated at least once.

Approach. Niponino to Couloir Poincenot.

Descent. Descend the route.

Bibliography. AAJ 1997 p. 252-254; High Magazine 176 p. 80-81; Rock and Ice Magazine 78 p. 68-78; Annales GHM 96/97 p. 39; Gregory Crouch (2002) Enduring Patagonia, Random House, USA (p. 115-141).

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot

Aguja Poincenot north face

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Aguja PoincenotEast face 1. Whillans-Cochrane1.1 Variation2. Fühle dich stark, aber nicht unsterblich3. Patagónicos Desesperados4. Whisky TimeNorth face21. Invisible Line5. Potter-Davis6. Banana Wall7. 40º Gruppo Ragni7.1 John Henry8. The Old Smuggler's Rt.West face9. Carrington-Rouse11. Southern Cross12. Tango ViejoSouthwest face13. Fonrouge-Rosasco13.1 DNV Direct13.2 Benedetti-Degregori13.3 Bransby-Tresch14. El Sacrificio del Ratón19. Rise of the Machines15. Judgment Day16. Historia InterminableSoutheast face20. Vía Russo17. Bagual Bigwall18. Sperone degli ItalianiTraverseTravesía Copp-Wharton


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