Fitz Roy - North pillar
27. Al Abordaje!
900m 6c A2+
Luciano Fiorenza and Jimmy Heredia (Argentina), Sergio Tartari (Brazil) 12/2010, to top of the pillar.
Description. Climbs an obvious line on the northwest face of the Goretta pillar. In the middle and upper portion the climbing is fantastic, with unmatched rock quality. There are no fixed anchors or any fixed gear on the route.
History. The route was climbed with two bivies on the way up and one on top of the pillar. The first ascensionists reckon that the route could be free climbed.
Approach. Eléctrico Valley to Paso Cuadrado to North Fitz Roy glacier. Once below Fitz Roy’s north face climb easy snow (45°) to the base of the route (500 meters vertical gain). The approach has been done in tennis shoes with aluminum crampons, but late in the summer hard ice could pose a problem. Boots, steel crampons and a light axe are recommended.
Pro. Two each camalots to #4, camalot # 5, nuts.
Descent. There are no fixed anchors on the route so unless you want to leave a large portion of your rack behind you will have to reach the top of the pillar to descent the Casarotto route. This descent only takes a few hours (4 hours for a competent party). From the top of the Bloque Empotrado (chockstone at the col) rappel west back to the base of the route where, if you plan to climb just to the top of the pillar you can leave boots, crampons and other.
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