Fitz Roy - South face


28. The Washington Route

650m (400 new) 6b+ A1

Kate Rutherford and Mikey Schaefer (USA), 02/2011.

Description: From the base of the Californian Route they rappelled 60 meters to the start of an obvious crack system that leads into a large west-facing corner which they followed for 10 pitches, to then head up the first system that veers right. Another two pitches of steep climbing lead to a couple of pitches of easier terrain and much simul-climbing to the summit.

History. Starting from Piedra Negra they bivied in "La Silla Americana" (the col between Aguja de la Silla and Fitz Roy's south face) and made a second bivy in the summit, which they reached around 11PM. Both leader and follower climbed, without use of jumars. The first ascensionists believe the route will go free at 6c+.

Approach. Brecha de los Italianos.

Pro. Doubles to #4, stoppers.

Descent. Franco-Argentine.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Fitz Roy south face

Fitz Roy south face

Fitz Roy southwest face