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Update: last updated on 10/03/2017.

Fitz Roy - South face

28. The Colorado Route

500m 45˚ 6c+

Max Barlerin - Quinn Brett - Michael Lukens (US), 01/2016.

Description: "The line" in the south face of Fitz Roy. Immaculate! It climbs a splitter-as-can-be crack system to the right of The Washington Route. In the central section, four pitches follow a lone crack that splits a massive blank headwall. In all it climbs 13 pitches, 10 quite vertical, the following three wandering up blocky terrain to join the summit slopes. The pitches go as follows: 35m 6b ow; 60m 6b hands; 60m 6b face; 50m 6c thin to fists; 50m 6c; 50m 6b wide hands; 40m 6c slot & hands; 35m 6b; 50m 6c+ thin hands-ring locks; 40m 6a; 150m to 6b. A great route that, because of its quality, deserves to become a classic.

History. They freed the route which goes at 6c+ (5.11c). They bivied at the Brecha and then climbed the route in a day, summiting in the late evening to bivy at the summit.

Approach. Paso Superior to Brecha de los Italianos to La Silla (300m 75˚ -to 90˚- 3), then part way across to La Brecha de los Americanos.

Gear. One ea. to 0.4, doubles from 0.5 to 4, triples on 2 and 3 (triple #4 would not go unused), one # 5.

Descent. Francesa.

Photos (click to enlarge)


Fitz Roy south face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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