Fitz Roy - East face


7. Línea de Eleganza

1250m 7c M8 (6c/A2/90°)

Horacio Codo, Lucas Fava (Argentina) and Elio Orlandi (Italy), 07/02/2004.

History. This line was originally attempted in early 1982 by a Japanese team of seven climbers led by Tsuneo Hasegawa who climbed approximately 400 meters. Elio Orlandi tried it on several occasions, the first with Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni in 2001. With Fava and Codo, and initially with the help of Fabio Giacomelli, Orlandi fixed ropes on the first 600 meters where they established a camp in a ledge they dubbed “Grand Hotel Patagonicus”. Above this point they fixed the ropes they had used in the lower wall to eventually reach the summit after several (9?) days on the wall. Some of the upper pitches might be shared with El Corazon. Free ascent, alpine style: Tommy Caldwell, Topher Donahue and Erik Roed (USA), 22-24/02/2006. They repeated the route in two days, climbing alpine style, with the leader onsight free climbing every pitch, with difficulties to 5.12d and M8. They descended the Franco-Argentine.

Approach. Río Blanco to Paso Superior. Cross the upper plateau of Glaciar Piedras Blancas to reach the foot of the face. One hour from Paso Superior.

Pro. Two each to camalots #3, two each Rps, two each stoppers.

Descent. Raps anchors along the route, but a descent via the Franco-Argentine would likely be more convenient.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Fitz Roy southeast face

Fitz Roy southeast face