Fitz Roy - East face


8. Diedro del Diablo

900m 6b A2

Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo and Francek Knez (Slovenia), 8/12/1983, with support from Stane Klemenc (Slovenia), to the col behind Goretta pillar, where they joined the Casarotto route.

Description. This climb follows the big dihedral between the east face and north pillar. It still awaits a second ascent.

History. Jeglic, Karo and Knez completed the ascent with the use of fixed ropes, and retreated upon joining the Casarotto route at the col between the final headwall and the Goretta pillar. It was the first of many successful Slovenian expeditions to the area. C. Comesaña and J. L. Fonrouge (Argentina) had attempted this line in late 1962.

Approach. Río Blanco to Paso Superior. Cross the upper plateau of Glaciar Piedras Blancas to reach the foot of the face. One hour from Paso Superior.

Pro. ?

Descent. Raps anchors along the route, but a descent via the Franco-Argentine would likely be more convenient.

Bibliography. Savenc F. - Krusic M. -1992- Na Vrhovih Sveta, Zalozba Mladinska Knjiga, Ljubljana, p.42-43; Planinski Vestnik 1985/3 p. 98-103; AAJ 1984 p.216-219;

Photos (click to enlarge)

Fitz Roy east face and north pillar

Fitz Roy east face

Diedro del Diablo topo