17.1 Los Ultimos Dias del Paraiso

1400m (650 new) 6c A2

Grega Lacen and Tomaz Jakofcic (Slovenia), 2007

Description. This route starts on a horizontal snow bench low on the north face, about 100 meters down and 300 meters right of Tehuelche’s leaning spire, just left of El Flaco con Domingo, which crosses it after three pitches or so. The first seven pitches, on slabs to the right of a big corner/chimney system that is choked with ice, are quite hard with poor rock (sandy and loose) involving free-climbing up to 6c as well as a few aid moves (A2) on icy cracks. After the first five or six pitches it is possible to move inside the corner system proper. At the end of this corner the climbing becomes easy for several hundred meters, including some easy snow climbing. The next steep section is a series of slabs immediately left of the Afanassieff involving 10 pitches with difficulties to 6a and A2. Just below the crest of the NW ridge the route joins the Afanasieff, along which it continues to the summit (700 meters more, difficulties to 6c).

History. After the first section, Jaka and Grega’s original plan was to climb the big corner left of the Afanasieff route, but it looked quite loose so they climbed further right instead, on the slabs. They climbed alpine style, starting in the morning and climbing non-stop for 38 hours, reaching the summit in a raging storm at 10 PM on day two. Because of the bad weather the descent along the Franco-Argentine was epic. Between the approach, climb and descent their entire adventure involved 72 hours of non-stop fun. They dedicated their route to their friend Ozbej Povsod, who died in 2006.

Approach. Eléctrico Valley to Paso Cuadrado to North Fitz Roy glacier. Once below Fitz Roy’s north face climb easy snow (45°) to the base of the route (300 meters vertical gain). Boots, steel crampons and a light axe are recommended. It is also possible to approach this route via Torre Valley to Boquete del Piergiorgio or Hombre Sentado.

Pro. Two each camalots to #3, one camalot #4, nuts.

17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu

1500m (450m new) 7a A2

Aymeric Clouet and Christophe Dumarest (France), 1/2008.

Description. An interesting variation to the Afanassieff that involves climbing initially a difficult and vertical pillar, located between the Afanasieff and the Supercanaleta. After those first 400 meters the route traverses almost straight left in search for easier ground and to join the Afanasieff along which it continues for another 1200 meters to reach the summit. The initial pillar involves difficulties up to 7a and A2. They estimate that it could go free at 7b/c.

History. Clouet and Dumarest fixed their two climbing ropes the evening before starting the climb and then spent two entire days climbing to the summit. They had only camalots to #3 that, made the few sections of off-width cracks that they encountered on that initial pillar, difficult. The descended the Supercanaleta. A French team had climbed this pillar in 2002 and 2003, but they intended to continue straight up, following the ridge crest, and were turned back after 800 meters by blank rock (see route 26 Attempt).

Approach. Eléctrico valley to Paso Cuadrado to North Fitz Roy glacier. It is also possible to approach this route via Torre valley to Boquete del Piergiorgio or Hombre Sentado. The route starts just left of the Supercanaleta. It is possible to reach the base in aluminum crampons and without an axe.

Pro. Two each to camalot #3, one each camalot #4 and #5, nuts.