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Update: last updated on 30/03/2012.

Fitz Roy - Goretta (north) pillar


30. The Real Kekec


900m 6c+ A2

Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj (SI), 1/2013.

Description. Climbs a new line that starts just left of Hudičeva Zajeda (Diedro del Diablo), joining this for one pitch before busting right, climbing 800 and some meters of new ground to join Renato Casarotto's 1979 route one pitch below the summit of Pilar Goretta and along this it continues to the summit (1200m altogether).

History. They climbed the route alpine style, with no jumars, placing no bolts and leaving no gear in place. They bivouacked three times in the ascent and once in the descent. The name of the route, The Real Kekec, refers to a Slovenian fictional character created by writer Josip Vandot in the early 20th century. Kekec is a brave and clever shepherd boy in the highlands of the Karavanke and Julian Alps. He is Slovene cultural icon, subject of many stories, songs and movies.

Approach. Laguna de los Tres to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior.

Descent. Francesa.

 

 

Photos (click to enlarge)

Casarotto

Fitz Roy east face and Goretta pillar

Casarotto

Fitz Roy Goretta pillar



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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up

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