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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Fitz Roy - Southwest face


22. Tonta Suerte

600m 6c C1

Nathan Martin and Tim O’Neill (USA), 2002.

Description. Their line climbs the lower portion of the Eslovaca, to reach the top of the prominent dihedral, and where the Eslovaca branches off to the right it continues straight up. It follows a series of very impressive steep dihedrals and off-width cracks to gain the west ridge and eventually join the Supercanaleta for its last seven pitches. In all, the route climbs 17 new pitches. 1400m altogether.

History. Climbing alpine style, and after a couple of unsuccessful attempts, Martin and O’Neill climbed a much sought after line. Their ascent was completed in 57.5 hours round trip, with one semi-bivi (no bivi gear) at the west ridge. They descended the Supercanaleta, which proved to be a serious undertaking, because of very wet conditions. This line had been previously attempted unsuccessfully by many strong teams, including Jack Tackle and Joe Josephson, Mark Synnot and Kevin Thaw and Alan Mullin and Thaw again. The name of the route refers to several episodes where luck played a role before, during and after the climb, a stop to smoke a cigarette saved them from a nasty rock avalanche, Timmy wrote, “As we sat commiserating between exasperated exhales, a tremendous rock avalanche ripped down 100 meters to our left. It destroyed our line of descent and would have minced us and our words if we had not been busy courting cancer. Who says smoking is bad for your health? Has the surgeon general ever been alpine climbing?” During the descent they were the first to come across the body of Chalten resident of Frank Van Herreghewe, a Chalten resident of Belgian and Andorran descent who had disappeared a couple of weeks before while attempting to solo the Californiana.

Approach. Starting at Hombre Sentado: Eléctrico valley to Paso Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte. Starting at Torre valley via Niponino.

Descent. Francesa.


Photos (click to enlarge)

Tonta

Fitz Roy southwest face

Tonta

Fitz Roy southwest face

Tonta

Fitz Roy southwest face

Tonta

Fitz Roy west face

Tonta

Fitz Roy west face



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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up

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