Fitz Roy - North face
12. French North Face route
1200m (1050 new) 6c A2+
Jerome Arpin, Sylvain Empereur, Yannick Ponson and Lionel Pouzadoux (France), 22/1/2002.
Description. Their line starts just right of the Polish route and reaches the Grand Hotel (a big ledge half way up the face) in about 16 pitches. There it crosses Tehuelche, and climbs a parallel crack system just to the right of it to reach the NW ridge where it joins the Afanassieff for the last 200 meters. In total 32 pitches.
History. They spent a total of six days working on the route, and fixed around 800 meters of rope, employing a style reminiscent of the 1980s. They eventually freed themselves from their umbilical cord for a short dash to the not-so-distant summit. Being all four very talented and experienced climbers their choice of style seems puzzling. It is still unrepeated.
Approach. Eléctrico Valley to Paso Cuadrado to North Fitz Roy glacier. Once below Fitz Roy’s north face climb easy snow (45°) to the base of the route (500 meters vertical gain). Boots, steel crampons and a light axe are recommended. It is also possible to approach this route via Torre Valley to Boquete del Piergiorgio or Hombre Sentado.
Pro. For a repeat Arpin recommends taking 3 or 4 sets of camalots, stoppers, a few copperheads, many pins and a couple of hooks.
Descent. All belays are in place so it is possible to rappel the route. |
